You will notice that the brown wires from the wall goes into the COM port on the existing switch and the blue with a brown sleeve switched live wire will be going into the numbered L ports. If your setup differs from a standard 2-wire system, it could be a 3-wire lighting system which usually includes an additional neutral wire that goes into the light via a connector block as per the poorly drawn diagram below. The neutral wire takes power to the light and the switch sits on the live wire to complete/break the circuit. The live wire brings the power supply to the switch. If you live in an older property, the wires may be black and red, red being Live and black being the Neutral. This is a ‘switched live’ wire connecting the light to the switch. There will also be another brown wire, or a blue wire with a brown sleeve coming out of the switch into the wall. This is connecting the switch to the fuse box. You will have a 2-core cable (or multiple) from the wall with a yellow and green (earth) wire earthed inside the wall box, a brown (live) wire going into the switch and a blue (neutral) wire. Take a photo or draw out the layout of the current wire setup. If you are looking to control when your lights are dimmed, you may want to look at a Dimmer Timer Combination switch that will allow you to schedule when your lights are either turned on or off, or dimmed, depending upon your needs.(Image credit: Jasmine Gurney) 4. The above steps are common with US three-way switches which are used to control the lights from two locations with two three-way switches. Some may find the above steps unnecessary complex because you may not need the neutral wire to be brought back into the switch. It is mandatory to have an earth conductor for the light fitting. This is done by using the ‘loop’ terminal and then separately joining the supply and load cables earth conductors together (possibly using a double-screwed BP connector). Connect the supply and load side neutral conductors.Gather the switched active supply to the actual light from ‘1’.Connect the active supply to the ‘C’ – Common terminal.Three-way switches are also common but can make it harder to tell if a light switch is on or off just by looking at the switch itself. It has no electrical connection to the switch and can be used, for example, for joining the neutral conductors of the cables from the supply and to the light. The loop is just a ‘spare’, unconnected terminal thrown in for convenience. With one common terminal and two switch terminals, it can be used to control two separate devices or circuits. The standard switch is a single-pole, double-throw rocker switch. If you do need to use it for some reason, you can reasonably easily break the protective plastic sleeve with a screwdriver. Generally, the terminal marked ‘2’ has a T-shaped small piece of plastic obscuring it because it is rarely needed and more times than not is used for 2-way switches. There will typically be four different terminals on the light switch, commonly marked as ‘C’, ‘1’, ‘2’ & ‘Loop’. Always ensure your mains power is turned off before fitting any dimmer switch. Never connect the dimmer switch to the Neutral lead only, which can lead to serious harm or death.If you prefer something more visual, you can watch this video on Youtube. Turn the dimmer switch on and ensure the dimming functionality works as designed by rotating the dial from left to right.Reconnect the power at the main switchboard.Attach the switch plate to the wall, these will usually include some sort of mounting bracket that attaches to the gyprock.Connect the dimmer switch as per the structure seen in the wiring diagram below these instructions.If you have an existing switch installed, remove it from the wall.Your light will usually be on a 10 amp circuit breaker. Disconnect the mains power to the relevant circuit at the main switchboard.2 – Switching between common and 2 with light switch in off position.1 = Switching between common and 1 with light switch in on position.Many will come with short circuit protection as well as Thermal Overload protection. Most dimmer switches designed for use within Australia will operate off a 240V AC Voltage.
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